Route Report: Maginot Line 5.7 Shortoff Mtn.
Had an excellent day on the Maginot Line at Shortoff mountain with a guest, Brian, from Greensboro.
The hike up Shortoff is an uphill affair that’s about a mile and half long until you reach the somewhat famous gully pipe in the trail. This gully pipe is used to access spring water that is coming out of the mountain and during spring conditions it can fill a liter bottle in about 30 seconds. We stopped to top off our bottles and used a water bottle with a built in filter to make sure that it was safe to drink. 35°49.895', -81°54.122'
We then started our descent down the wet gully. There are lots of opportunities for slips on the way down with wet roots and slick mud. Carefully choosing a path down is possible and once at the bottom we rigged the rope for rappel off a sturdy pine tree that has some cord and other random slings around it for an anchor.
At the bottom of the cliff we turned skiers left, or south, and made our way to the base of the Maginot Line. This climb is debated amongst climbers as possibly the best 5.7 rock climb in the state. There are 4 pitches that are all unique and exciting. 35°49.805', -81°54.198'
The first pitch is likely the crux of the route making your way up a left facing dihedral that has a crack. Utilizing the crack, chimney technique, and the occasional face hold you get to the belay ledge at about 100 feet. The belay ledge is large but the opportunity for anchors are somewhat awkward and low.
The next pitch steps back left into the crack system and a short pitch of about 50 feet deposits you at a nice belay nook. There are many options for anchoring here. I chose to utilize a large wedged block and a cam for the anchor.
The third pitch make a rightward traverse around the buttress until you are under a clean white face. Climbing the face that’s free of lichen will deposit you at the next belay ledge where you can build an anchor with small to medium camming units. This pitch is also about 100 feet total.
The last pitch steps left off the belay and climbs a broken corner system. Keep going until you reach the trees. Tread lightly near the top as there are lots of small loose rocks that you could dislodge and send flying down the cliff at your belayer or anyone else that’s below. Choose any tree you like for the belay, one of the lower trees allows better communication amongst the party.
Take in the view and savor the experience of climbing one of the best 5.7 rock climbs in the state.
The steep final move on the first pitch.
Chockstone anchor at the Belay Nook on the second pitch.
All smiles with Lake James in the background.
Awesome shot of us on the 3rd pitch courtesy of our friend, Andy Thorsell.