amga spi Exam
The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Exam and certification is the quintessential training course for aspiring rock climbing guides. The SPI certification is recognized internationally as the gold standard for single pitch climbing instructors. Exams are offered year-round and based in multiple locations around the U.S.
who is this for?
The program is for current, active rock climbers who have a real desire to teach rock climbing to novices in a single pitch setting.
The SPI Course is a 27-hour training course that normally runs as three consecutive nine-hour days or day classes with evening sessions.
The SPI Assessment is a minimum of 16 hours run over a two-day period.
Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification.
After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to regain the SPI certification.
Taking any higher level AMGA Course also recertifies the SPI certification for another three years.
NOTE: There is a minimum of 2 participants required per exam date. Please contact us to confirm enrollment prior to making travel arrangements.
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Our objective is to provide aspiring climbing instructors with a comfortable and stress-free assessment.
During the exam, the candidate must show the examiner they have the technical and instructional skills to pass the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam. The SPI Exam is broken down into five distinct evaluation sessions; risk management, climbing movement, technical systems, instructional technique and professionalism. Candidates are evaluated by the AMGA marking system categories as explained here.
Risk Management · Technical Systems · Movement · Professionalism · Instructional Technique
As of 2024, the AMGA has updated the assessment categories to refine the original 9 categories to a simpler and relevant 5 categories. Elements of the previous assessment categories have been absorbed into the categories that remain. Additionally there has been the development of a proficiencies list to better define the assessment categories in greater detail. Although the assessment categories are not an exact replica of the higher level AMGA mountain guide programs, they are similar in nature with subtle differences specific to single pitch instruction. For clarity the terms SPI Assessment and SPI Exam are interchangeable.
All of our courses can be run as custom outings. If you’re interested in a course, but it doesn’t fit into your schedule, please email wes@appalachianclimbing.com
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DAY 1
✦ SPI Assessment Orientation
Introduction of candidates and examiners, detailing candidates’ climbing and instructing experience since completion of an SPI Course, expectations and the assessment process.✦ Lead Climbing and Top Rope Session
Candidates will demonstrate their climbing movement skills by comfortably top roping 5.8 and leading 5.6 traditional climbs.✦ Technical Components
Candidates will demonstrate proficiency in executing technical systems used in single pitch climbing.✦ End-of-Day Debriefs
Introduction of candidates and examiners, detailing candidates’ climbing and instructing experience since completion of an SPI Course, expectations and the assessment process.DAY 2
✦ Group Management
Candidates will demonstrate their group management skills.✦ Teaching Components
Candidates will demonstrate their instructional and coaching skills.✦ End-of-Assessment Group and Individual Debriefs
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• You are a current member of the AMGA.
• You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course.
• You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.
• You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.
• You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.
The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months).
You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.
For more information about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program, click here.